How Humidity Affects Heating and Cooling
To explain how humidity affects heating and cooling costs, let me start with an analogy. There’s no shortage of hot air in Washington D.C. these days, so carry a bucket there and fill it with hot air and cover it. Then fill a second bucket with hot water and cover it. Now take the covers off both at the same time. Which bucket cools off fastest? (That’s a rhetorical question)
The reason the water cools more slowly is due to the concept of thermal mass. Water has more thermal mass than air. In other words, it can store more heat.
Humid air has more water in it than dry air, so which do you think requires more energy to cool? (Another rhetorical question)
This same concept applies to heating – it takes more energy to heat humid air than dry air.
How Climate Affects Energy Usage
Looking at the chart above, hot and humid areas use 21.1% of their energy on air conditioning each year, while hot and dry areas only use 9.6% of their energy to air condition. Check out this document prepared for the Department of Energy in 2010 that explains the 5 climate regions. The document lists cities across the country so you can use it to find which region you live in.
There are many other factors affecting energy use besides humidity, but it does play a very large role in how much energy is needed to cool a home, and to a much lesser degree, how much energy is needed to heat a home.
What is Relative Humidity?
It is a measure of the amount of water air can hold at a given temperature. So air at 50% relative humidity contains half the amount of water that it is capable of holding. Relative humidity cannot exceed 100% because water condenses out of the air as small droplets once the air is saturated.
Psychometrics
Psychometrics is the study of the thermodynamic properties of moist air. You don’t need to know all the technical details. Just remember that hot air is able to hold more water than cold air. So air in hot, humid climates is more expensive to cool. In fact, there is so much water in hot, humid air, that as it is cooled water condenses out of it, because, remember cool air cannot hold as much water so the water has to go somewhere. This is the reason air conditioners create condensate as part of the process of cooling air. The same thing happens to a glass of ice water on a hot, humid day – the air near the glass is cooled and can no longer hold as much water so the water condenses out of the air onto the surface of the cold glass, runs down the glass and ruins your grandmother’s antique wood table.
It’s a wonderful thing that water condenses out of the air as it is cooled for 2 reasons. One is because homo sapiens are most comfortable in a relative humidity of 40% to 60% so we often want to reduce the humidity of outside air. The other is because of a four-letter word we don’t want around – mold. Mold needs an environment of greater than 60% relative humidity to live so it is vitally important to keep building environments at or below 60% relative humidity. Cooling air squeezes the water out of it and gives us some control over humidity.
So what about heating humid air? That’s easy – just heat it up. The hotter the air gets the more water it can hold so any water in the air stays there. It does take a bit more energy to heat humid air than dry air because you’re heating more water. However, since the amount of water vapor in a given volume of air near room temperature is small, the measurable energy difference in heating humid air verses dry air in your home is very small and not a factor that needs to be addressed.
As air is heated, the relative humidity decreases because the air is able to hold more and more water as it increases in temperature. In a controlled environment, like your home, if you heat air at 60% humidity and 40F up to 70F, you decrease the humidity to about 18%. That’s why air is so dry in the house in the winter and also why static electricity is much more prevalent in the winter. You can increase humidity with a humidifier when heating air, but it is expensive and most commonly done only when health conditions call for it, and in buildings with special requirements like museums.
Even though a humidity range of 40% to 60% is most comfortable for people, it is often necessary to maintain humidity below 40% in the winter to keep condensate from forming on cold surfaces like windows.
If you want to get into the geek stuff and find out how I determined how much the humidity would decrease when the air is heated from 40F to 70F, do some Google searches on “Psychometric Chart”. Here is a great pdf book on air conditioning psychometrics.
How to Improve Comfort and Save Money
It’s clear that we want to heat and cool drier air rather than more humid air to save money, but comfort comes into play too. So here are some tips.
- Buy a hygrometer. A hygrometer measures relative humidity and is an essential tool in controlling humidity because you cannot manage what you don’t measure. Inexpensive hygrometers are not very accurate, they are typically within +/- 5% relative humidity, but you don’t need exact numbers. You just need to know if your home is in the comfort range, or if it is too dry, or too humid. Very dry is ok and is energy efficient, but it can dry out sinuses and cause excessive static electricity. Very humid is not ok because it invites the growth of mold. Run your air conditioner to condense some water out of the air and lower the humidity whenever your home exceeds 60% humidity for any extended period of time.
- When air conditioning your home, use the bathroom exhaust fan to remove warm, humid air after a shower. Then turn it off so you don’t continue to exhaust conditioned air. In the winter, you may actually want to leave that warm humid air in the house because humidity can get uncomfortably low during cold weather. Cooking can add heat and humidity to the home and this tip applies in that situation also. Let your hygrometer be your guide.
- During cold weather, filter and exhaust warm, humid air from your electric clothes dryer into the house. This saves energy and humidifies at the same time. Dryer duct kits are available with a damper that lets you direct air into the house or outdoors. Check out this kit at Amazon as an example. (Warning: never vent gas dryers into the house because of the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning)
- Keep doors and windows closed, especially during warm, humid weather. Every bit of humid air you let into the house requires additional energy to cool.
- Try to achieve a relative humidity of 30% to 40% in the winter and 40% to 50% in the summer. This will keep your home comfortable, free of mold, minimize static electricity, and keep condensate from forming on interior surfaces. It is ok to fall outside the desired range for a day or two occasionally.
This is an interesting article. Thanks for enlightening the effects of humidity on heating & cooling equipments performance and efficiency.
Your comparison of the two buckets at the top is not valid. You can not just compare the specific heat of liquid water with that of watervapour. Absolute BS!
Cooling humid air takes more energy because of the condensation heat of water vapour to liquid water. Heating is quite different, there is very little difference between heating dry air and moist air!
Hans, your point is well taken, but your way of saying it won’t get you any respect. In the situation of heating a home, the difference in heating humid air verses dry air is small enough that it is not worth measuring. But since it does indeed take more energy to heat humid air than dry air, the comparison of the two buckets is valid. I have added some words in the article to make your point clear to readers. And for anyone wanting more detail, there is a good discussion on this subject here.
Good stuff.
Thank you.
Both have a valid point in heating and cooling vs RH. However, a dehumidifier or humidifier adds to the cost so it makes little difference. The most important cost is health. High humidity causes spore or mold growth. A health issue.
This is an earnest qs, not a comment. I need around 50% humidity in the Colo climate in Boulder for medical reasons like dry eyes, skin etc….this is why I installed a whole house Aprilaire 700 humidifier on my furnace. Given the summer heat, I am now planning to instal an air cooler (Seeley Breezair EXV series. Will the air cooler have to work longer? Will water condense out of the air? What should I be prepared for? Thank you!
Hello Bella,
I know Boulder well since I used to live in Greeley and in Denver. A goal of 50% humidity is perfect. A range of 40% to 60% is generally ok. You have already installed a humidifier, and now you’re adding an evaporative cooler. Both will increase humidity so you’ll want to run only one of the units at a time – typically the humidifier in the winter when heating, and the evaporative cooler in the summer. The humidifier should be turned off when the cooler is running, so the air cooler will not have to work longer or harder because of the humidifier. The most important thing you can do is to have a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. You may find that your humidity in the summer with the Breezair EXV cooler increases to above 60%. That’s ok for a while – you just don’t want to keep it consistently above 60%. It might cause doors to swell and stick, and it provides moisture for mold to grow. Plus, it can make your home feel muggy and smell musty. In the winter, you’ll want to keep the humidity around 50% or less to minimize the condensation that can form on the inside of the windows. Wishing you the best!
I have been facing challenges with my indoor plants growth due to a reduced humidity. I have research and find out that a humidify can help but i don’t the investment. Is there any artificial method that can help out?
Plants do like humidity, and it can get very low, especially in the winter when we are heating our homes. Other than using a humidifier, about the only thing you can do is to try and capture as much humidity as possible in your home. Things like not using the exhaust fan when taking a shower, not using the vent hood (assuming it is the type that vents to the outdoors) when cooking, and leaving some pans or buckets of water sitting around to evaporate, will help increase the humidity level. Just be sure humidity doesn’t exceed 60% in your home, as I explain in the article. Another thing you might do is to spritz your plants with water every day using a spray bottle. To your plants, it will be like a welcome rainstorm!
Thank you for the article! I live in Flagstaff, AZ. We recently had an AprilAire 800 (steamer) installed with our furnace to help maintain some humidity in our home during the winter months. We are planning on having an AC unit installed. We intend on keeping the RH somewhere around the 30-40% range for our 1800sqft home. I would expect the same principles to apply in regards to energy use; it will take more energy to cool our humidified air.
All that said, I’ve had HVAC specialists warn me that the AC/Humidifier will run tremendously more canceling each other out. While I do agree, the AC will dehumidify the air, I cannot imagine its effects are so significant that it results in significantly longer run times for both systems, particularly in the context of our modest target RH range.
What has your experience been with combining AC units and humidifiers in regards to their use/energy consumption and do you have any suggestions or recommendations for implementing them together?
Thank you!
Hi Dave. Your humidifier will work great to increase humidity in the winter months when you are using the furnace. In the summer months, the amount of energy it takes to cool the more humid air is small, so I wouldn’t be concerned with the runtime of the AC. However, it is true that the AC is very effective at pulling humidity from the air, so the humidifier will have to work much harder than it would if the AC were not running – the two units will fight each other. What can you do about it? Not much. If you want the added humidity during the months when you’re running the AC, you’ll just have to realize that the humidifier will work much harder. You can play around with various humidity and temperature settings and find what works best for you. Your target humidity levels are very reasonable and should be a realistic target to achieve. Best of luck!
Just a small but still significant quibble; A warm air furnace does not dry out the air that passes through it. The exact same amount of moisture is present in the heated air leaving the furnace as it was going into the furnace. The relative humidity measurement is lower, but moisture content is the same. The reason many homes have dry air in the winter is simply because the humidity outside is much lower in cold weather. This air infiltrates into the house and results in lower humidities. In really cold weather the humidity can get really low. At the same time, the air pressure differentials and stack effects make infiltration even more active, and the humidity gets even lower. Since the furnace also runs more when it’s really cold, many assume the furnace is “drying out the air.” It is not. I have made my home so tight it requires mechanical ventilation and sometimes dehumidification in the dead of winter.
I understand your comments Wesley. I think you would gain a deeper understanding of relative humidity by studying the psychometric chart. Wet-bulb temperature, dry-bulb temperature, dew point, etc. are all interrelated and the relationships are shown on the chart. The outside relative humidity is higher in the winter in some locations and lower in other locations. It would be incorrect to say that the primary reason relative humidity in a home is lower in the winter is because the relative humidity is lower outside. Relative humidity gets lower as air heats up, so whatever the outside temperature and humidity is, humidity will always be lower inside in the winter because the air is warmer. Relative humidity in a home is determined by many factors including outside humidity, inside humidity, and the temperature differential between inside and outside. The humidity in a well-sealed home increases because moisture from showers, cooking, people breathing, etc. builds up and has no escape. Think about it and study the psychometric chart and I believe you’ll come to the realization that outside humidity and air infiltration are not the primary reasons indoor humidity is lower in the winter. Thank you for sharing your ideas.